So Moonlight called me up and said the boards was ready. Picked it up last week but due to a stomach ailment, I didn't get to give a spin till this morning. Gotta admit that it worked pretty well, in punchy, shoulder high beach break. Stoked to give it another whirl tomorrow and the day after that.....
It had been a long time since I'd done anything really "rad". January 2011 has been one of the "radder" months in recent memory for a variety of reasons. One of the "raddest" things was the building of a new backyard board shaping rack upon which various shapes and sizes of surfing devices will be crafted.
This piece of foam was given to me by my sister for Xmas and will be transformed into a 6'2" fish by the Ides of March.
The outline has been cut but there are still decisions to be made. Glass on or removable??? Quad or twin ??? Single wing or double bump??? More pics to come and more work to be done.
As a quasi-scientist I really dig this sort of thing... I've been talking about using dump truck tires to fix a couple of spots for about 10 years now. These guys seem to have it a little more dialed in.
I used to rock this track all day, every day. Forgot about it until yesterday. Left Field and Roots Manuva, Dusted . Awesome production value and cool english dude flow. The video effin rocks too.
Modern Collective. WTF. This video is heavy. The soundtrack is unreal. These guys are surfing at a level unlike I've ever seen. Bottom turn, 360 Air, bottom turn, alley oop air w/ double grab, bottom turn, heaviest cutback ever. Literally, they are taking their boards off the wave face and coming back down without losing speed or momentum. Fluidly connecting airs and linking them with traditional turns and not looking like a douche bags. I was beside myself when I first saw it, I'm still awed after seeing it a second time.
I remember I surfed at Lakey peak with Dion, Dusty and Yadin for a week back in 2007, and it was rad to watch them rip and try to push my own surfing to the next level. Looking back it still seems like some of the best turns I've ever done were on that trip. I remember paddling out watching Yadin take off in the barrel, do a big lien air, then fit in two quick whacks before doing some sort of 360 cutback into the closeout. Then I remember D.hump yelling at him something about trying to launch higher. Meanwhile I was thinking that was the biggest air I'd ever seen in person, by a long shot. Incidentally, Peter Mendia was also on that trip and I remember him throwing 50 gallon buckets of spray when I was paddling out from a left. So power surfing is still rad and will never go out of style but full rail power surfing with big airs is even radder.
I turn 30 next week and feel like I just got 10 years younger after watching Modern Collective. I'm going to buy a 5'10" epoxy shred stik and start trying to surf like I skate or snowboard. Watch this video as soon as you can, it's like cialis for your surfing. Here's a trailer...
Here is one of my favorites, check out how hard he hits it on his backside. Damn son, look at that body rotation. Fins free is the new rail gouge. Pink is the new brown which is the new black, so you figure it out.
I've had this link on my site for a few months, but who knows how many of you have actually clicked on it. For those of you who have, you know how cool this site is, but for those who have not, lemme tell you it's probably the best source of high quality video of what may be the best surfer in the world right now...Dane Reynolds. Click on the link and watch his other videos like Slopey Slalom Ski, the beat is sizzling and the surfing is pretty hot too.
Unfortunately a lot of the best waves in San Diego are located at sewer pumping stations. This motivated one of my favorite writers, Tom Wolfe, to write The Pumphouse Gang. Not the best book in the world by any means but certainly enjoyable. If you live in California and surf, you should probably do your self a favor and read it. "Meda!"
These pics are from another pumphouse, but one that is often just as protected.
This short piece from 2003, deals with something near and dear to my heart, the fish.
Also from this episode, a picture of a local break a lot of people choose to ride fishes at, which would seem to shatter the notion that they are for small, mushy waves.
It's February 1st, which means I just started writing the correct date on checks, correspondence, etc. The last forty or so days, have seen some of the best swell and conditions in recent memory. Naturally, I've spent very little time taking pictures or taking care of business in general and have spent the majority of my days in the pursuit of noodle-armed perfection. However, I have managed to capture a few images during the last month that I finally have gotten around to sharing them.
Best right point break in San Diego This guy is doing is Lopez impersonation
Shot from over a mile away on December 9th, 2009. I've seen this wave work about three times in the last two years as it takes 10 ft, 20 second plus type energy to ignite this deepwater break. Wherever you think this wave is, that's where it's not. My guess is this thing is easily 15-20 feet on the face, unfortunately there is no way to get a sense of scale. You'll just have to trust me. If you can name the break and where it was shot from I'll give you some back issues of surfer I've gorging on for the last month.
Wind was offshore this morning, waves were inconsistent but fun. Air was remarkably cold, fall is definitely here. Here are a few black and whites that show the various textures of a Southern California autumn.
I just returned from a trip up north and scored some good waves. While returning from one of the better waves in the area, I noticed how beautiful the path back to the road was. I snapped a few pictures to share with you here. If you've been fortunate enough to lay sights on this trail after catching a few drainers, you'll recognize this trail immediately. Tread lightly.
I also made my Maiden Voyage in the "Blue Dream" Baja mobile to Punta XXX with 3 friends. The drive was long and at times scary. The vibe was very hostile, and for parts of the trip safety was the primary concern for the group. Fluent spanish skills and a calm temperament eased us through one particularly sticky situation. Nevertheless, we were rewarded with some great waves in a very remote part of Baja California.
Fences everywhere.
Guns everywhere. This shot below almost got me in big trouble. That guy is wielding an RPG mounted on top of a Humvee. I then got to feel an M16 up against my scapula.
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